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In this discussion, we’ll dive into the importance of how to set up a proper garden bed to support growing your own food, especially during these times that urge us to take control of our actions. Consuming fruits and veggies during their seasons, grown in our own yards, aligns with nature’s signals, providing us with the most nutrient-dense foods possible.
This is the creator’s design at its finest. Conversely, purchasing out-of-season foods from big box stores not only costs more but also supports corporations indifferent to our health.
Now, let’s explore how to set up a budget-friendly garden that yields nutrient-rich produce without breaking the bank. While initial costs may seem high, establishing garden beds properly ensures they serve you for years to come.
Throughout this conversation, we’ll share techniques from start to finish, guiding you through an exciting journey toward self-sustainability. So, grab your swimming goggles, follow our lead, and witness the transformative power of growing your own food.
How to Set Up A Proper Garden Bed
Bed Placement
This may be one of the most important steps. Placement is crucial. BUT sometimes I tend to go against the grain just to test the grounds of what is possible. It is ok to break the rules, because there really are no rules when it comes to growing food. Do what works best for you. Experiment and be free. The so called rules are just guidelines that you may want to learn from.
There are general guidelines for what works but, they do not always work in every situation. So don’t be afraid to stray from the status quo. Garden beds are best oriented north to south. This provides the most sun exposure and air circulation.
What Happens If I Have a Slope?
When dealing with a slope, it’s best to position your rows perpendicular to it to reduce runoff. Our beds, situated northeast to southwest because of the slope, have proven successful for our crops. The key is adapting to your environment; work with what you have, and things will fall into place.
However, if there’s a tree casting shade on your beds, you’ll need to make a choice: either remove the tree or position your garden beds around the shaded area. Adequate sunlight and water are indispensable for fostering productive plant growth.
Establishing Proper Garden Beds
The complexity of this topic is entirely up to you. However, creating a space to grow nutrient-dense food can be as straightforward as you desire.
Here are some ideas when it comes to garden bed.
Built Raised Beds
This will require minimal construction but, may cost you a pretty penny these days with the cost of lumber and materials.
Popular sized beds are 4’ wide X 8’ long or 4’wide X 12’long. Why 4’ wide? With a 4’ wide bed, most will be able to reach the center from both sides and still have ample space to grow a good amount of food.
The height of the beds could be as simple as a 2×4. But, 4×6 boards are my recommendation. 6 inches high will give you more space for soil and root growth. Pine 2×4’s will only last so long. Pressure treated wood will last longer but, they will poison your soil and everything planted in it.
Do not use pressure treated wood!
One way to use safe wood that may last longer in the elements is Cedar Wood. But, cedar wood comes with a cost. If you are looking to cut costs using pine boards, you could use the Shou Sugi Ban: The Art of Japanese Wood Burning method.
This may take a bit more time for your setup but, will provide longevity for your beds and scratch that pyromaniac itch if you got one . You can achieve this by getting a torch attachment for a propane tank and torching all sides until they are black. Now simply screw all the pieces together making a box.
Should I put a bottom on it to keep the soil in?
If it makes you smile to put a bottom on it, have at it. I see this being unnecessary. Without it you are inviting in beneficial microbes and earthworms into your bed which is a huge plus.
Without putting on a bottom I do recommend putting a few layers of cardboard down before filling your bed with soil. This will kill off and keep grass from growing into your bed and will invite in the earthworms as cardboard is one of their favorite carbon dishes to eat.
You can also build taller raised beds. This will definitely save your back because you will not have to bend over as much. However, there is an added cost in materials and will take more soil to fill. One trick to filling the bed is putting in logs and twigs on the bottom.
There are more benefits to doing this than just filling up space. These logs will act like sponges holding water and will release moisture when your plants and soil need it.
Pros of Built Raised Beds
- Building raised beds will save your back. Especially if you build them higher.
- They are aesthetically pleasing.
- You have the potential to add a cover with old windows and hinges to use during the colder months. This will provide you with season extension by creating a greenhouse effect.
- You can add hoops simply and affordably with p.v.c. pipe and pipe straps for season extension, insect netting, and frost cover.
Cons of Built Raised Beds
- The biggest con is the cost. Lumber prices have become ridiculous these days and I do not see them coming down anytime soon.
- A bit more difficult to use the power of a wheel barrow to deliver fresh compost.
- Specialty tools are designed mostly for permanent in-ground beds providing efficiency.
Permanent In-Ground Raised Beds
Permanent in-ground raised beds is my preference. I have the space and I prefer the many functionalities that come with them. Building these beds are fairly simple but, does call for some elbow grease to get you started.
Dimensions
While many gardeners opt for 4-foot-wide beds of any length they desire, I personally prefer 30-inch-wide beds. Although wider beds offer more space for crops, I appreciate the convenience of easily stepping over the beds and straddling them while planting, weeding, and harvesting.
Moreover, narrower beds like mine require less material, saving a considerable amount of money. Some growers even use 36-inch beds, but I find 30-inch beds optimal because many tools are designed specifically for this size. It’s a popular choice among market gardeners for its practicality and efficiency.
Pros of Permanent In-Ground Raised Beds
- Less cost to get you up and growing.
- Ease of planting, preparing, harvesting and turning beds over for a new crop.
- Many tools are available and designed to help you prepare, plant and harvest from the bed.
Cons of Permanent In-Ground Raised Beds
- Beds are closer to the ground making work harder on your back and knees as you grow older.
- May be less aesthetically pleasing in the eye of the beholder.
How to Build an In-Ground Raised Bed
Now, this process can vary. So, I will just share what we do to establish a ready to plant in-ground raised bed. It may sound like a lot of work but, this is a one and done job.
Step 1
Mow the grass as low as possible or weed wack it with a sting trimmer. The goal is to get the grass and weeds cut down as short as possible.
Step 2
String off the area of the bed. This step will keep ya honest and provide some aesthetically pleasing views with straight lines. Be sure to string off the width of the bed and the walkway. I suggest 30” beds with 18” walkways.
Step 3
Breaking fresh ground. I like to use a broad fork to break the initial ground before anything else. This will invite nutrients and life into the ground below your beds and aerate. This step is important because this ground that doesn’t seem so nice now, will turn into golden soil within a year or two.
So, all your hard work adding carbon on top of this ground will break down, build your soil and will require less inputs in the future. This step will also help to invite in earthworms. If you do not have a broad fork or cannot source one to borrow, you can till this area one time to get things started.
I do not like tilling because tilling increases erosion and loss of microbial life in the soil. Tilling year after year, the microscopic billions of creatures in the top few inches of the soil will be killed off. This leaves your soil dead without proper life and nutrients that are the key to the growth and health of plants. This is just scratching the surface of all the negative effects of tilling.
But, like I mentioned, if you feel the need to till, till once in the beginning for a bit of a head start. Full disclosure, I will still love you if you decide to till every year but, you will NOT get a cupcake from me.
Movin’ on!
Step 3
Now for the layering. Start with adding a double or even triple layer of corrugated cardboard removing all tape and other nonsense. Try to not use any shiny or colored cardboard. Using cardboard has recently gotten a bad wrap. Many preach not to use cardboard with any kind of writing or glue. These days, everyone seems to know “the best way”. Personally, I hand pick which information I listen too.
I do thorough research, I try things out and then I try it my way. I am not married to any approach. A simple way to look at it, is you do you. What may work seamlessly for you, may not work the same for someone else.
Listen up! Growing your own food will offer you freedom. However you approach it, will be unique to your situation.
Okay Then, Step 4
Pile on some carbon. This could be straw that has not been sprayed, hay, old leaves etc.
Next, it’s crucial to incorporate a generous amount of compost. For new beds, aim to add approximately 6-8 inches of compost. Remember, when it comes to compost, more is better at this stage. Essentially, this process resembles sheet mulching or lasagna gardening, where you’re creating layers.
Start with a base of carbon-rich materials like fodder or composted manure for nitrogen. Essentially, you’re constructing a compost pile in the shape of a garden bed.
Now What?
At this point in your journey, your are ready to start plugging in plants into your bed. I like to add amendments into the beds first. I like to sprinkle bone meal, blood meal, Azomite (rock dust) for essential minerals, wood ash (if you have it) and bunny poop. We keep rabbits for many reasons.
After adding your amendments, simply rake them in. I add all these amendments in the beginning and never fertilize again throughout the growing cycle of the crops in that bed. When that crop is done, I will rake back the mulch (this is why I prefer straw that is not sprayed), broad fork the bed, add a fresh layer of quality compost and the same amendments.
Young seedlings will need water in the beginning to get their legs strong but, after that, if you use our suggestions with using deep mulch, you may not need to provide irrigation, after the step of establishing your beds, if you get enough rain. If you are living in a drought state like California or in a hot climate, you will need to irrigate.
I hope that this small amount of information helps you to get started growing food. This journey, of yours, may seem daunting at times but, remember one thing. This journey can be as simple or complicated as you make it. Learn the fundamentals first and then just have fun.
Learn the top five foods you can grow now here!
Until next time…
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